THERE'S NO SECRET TO RAMSAY'S MAZE

There's a popular new book out titled The Secret. GrasGuy hasn't read it, but the gist of it is that if you wish hard enough for something, you'll get it. Life is as simple as that. It's how Beethoven was able to write great symphonies and how Jimmy got himself a red 10-speed bike for his birthday. I'm not sure if the book is found in the self-help, spiritual, or magic section of bookstores, but there may be a little something to it.

A few weeks ago I wrote about my desire to dine at Gordon Ramsay's restaurant at the London Hotel in NYC, but with a 3 month old baby at home it didn't really seem to be in the cards anytime soon. At least I could enjoy watching him whine and scream in the meantime - of course I'm talking about chef Ramsay on his television show, Hell's Kitchen, not my well-behaved son. So you can imagine my surprise on Fathers' Day when wife and baby told me to get in a cab because we were going out to an early dinner at an undisclosed location - and make sure you dress sharp!

Oblivious to where we were headed, visions of Per Se and Masa danced in my head as we approached the Time Warner Center. We did have a baby carriage in the trunk, though, so I wasn't surprised when the cab took a left downtown on 7th Avenue. But then a quick left on 54th street put us smack in front of the London and I couldn't have been happier.

Arriving at an unfashionably early 5pm, we were the only ones in the London Bar's restaurant - which we discovered had just been renamed Maze after his restaurant in the actual City of London. An attempt, I'd guess, to shore up what has been a less than blistering success since it opened a few months ago. All blue-grey upholstery and mirrors - imagine a cross between Cary Grant's suit from North By Northwest and a 1966 Ford Galaxie if you must - the decor is slick enough to catch the eye, but not so outlandish as to distract from the food or company. Of course, behind a pair of mirrored doors in the back, lies the more formal Gordon Ramsay At The London restaurant and the long-desired Pressed Foie Gras and Game with Port Sauce and Pickled Mushrooms that started this adventure. However, whether it be divine providence or that pesky Secret again, the dish is not currently on the menu so I didn't spend the entire meal longing for entry into those gilded confines.

In fact I was more than pleased with the extensive small-plates menu Maze has to offer - including no less, but alas no more, than 3 dishes featuring Foie Gras. In an attempt to outdo my birthday meal at L'Atelier Joel Robuchon, I ordered them all.

The first was a very interesting Apple Cured Duck Breast with Smoked Foie Gras Terrine and Amaranth. The waiter introduced the duck as only cured, not cooked at all. It was moist and looked like four slices of bacon formed into square the size of a slice of mortadella, a small block of amaranth-sprinkled terrine placed in one corner and a bit of Frisée in the other like a golden gloves lightweight facing off with Joe Frazier. If I've had amaranth before, I couldn't tell you, though I'm sure it's been in many a South Asian dish I've enjoyed along the way. On it's own the duck was unexpectedly mild, but when tasted with the impossibly creamy Foie Gras and malty flavor of the amaranth, the acidic flavor of the brine was brought to the front creating quite a stir on the pallet. I just wish it didn't look like a cold cut.

It's rare that two of the world's top chef's have a dish so similar on their menus, but when I saw Maze was offering a Honey and Soy Roasted Quail with Sautéed Foie Gras and Spiced Pear Chutney I couldn't wait to see how it stacked up against Rubochon's Foie Gras-Stuffed Carmelized Quail. Very different in execution, Ramsay's dish consists of two seared quail legs, one served atop the chutney, the other under a slice of seared Foie Gras, in contrast to the mouse-stuffed breast at L'Atelier. The quail itself is a bit tastier at Maze and the chutney - which I usually have no great love for - was savory enough to make me into a believer, but it was the Foie Gras that closed the deal. While Robuchon's stuffing tasted almost like an aged cheese, the Foie Gras at Maze was pure. Cooked perfectly, it was silky smooth while maintaining all of it's natural consistencies - exactly what one dreams about when they dream about the epitome of Foie Gras - if that one is me. With such different presentations, to compare the two would be apples and oranges, or perhaps apples and prunes - which leads us to #trois of the trio. Twice Cooked Poussin, Roast - Coq au Vin with Prune Purée and Foie Gras Velouté.

I have no idea what goes into making a Foie Gras velouté, but the result is a broth that bears no resemblence to it's treasured ingredient, and it's almost a bit sad to see. But there you have it, two pieces of poussin set a top the prunes, floating in a watery opaque yellow liquid that almost looks like Campbell's Chicken Soup before you add the water. Sadly, this isn't available in a can - yet. Rather than having much flavor of it's own, the velouté lends an essence of Foie Gras to the Coq a Vin which exists as an almost sweet BBQ glaze on one piece of the chicken. The combination is unique in my experience and worthy of merit, though the unglazed roast breast probably worked better with the broth. All in all a nice finish to a poultry-heavy meal that made me feel as if I'd just eaten the haute cuisine version of a Turducken.

Accompanied by my wife's order of curry dusted scallops, the most asparagus intense-flavored risotto ever encountered, and some excellent but surprisingly ordinary lamb chops, my only complaint about the meal was the absence of an amuse bouche. I know, very snobby of me, and a just a few years ago I thought an amuse bouche was something you found on the videotapes under your college roommate's bed. But I've been programmed in a Pavlovian fashion to expect such things these days, and expect I do. This oversight was partially made up for by the peanut brittle and four caramel-filled chocolate balls - of which I had three - served after our dessert of chocolate fondant and almond ice cream.

With all of the dishes ranging from $12-$18 and a relatively reasonably priced wine by the glass list to offset a four-figure heavy collection of bottle$, a meal here can be quite a bargain to boot. Unfortunately the competition for this type of dining has gone from nil to a crowd in NYC recently, and Maze is no better than the best. But while that Pressed Foie Gras is gone for now, I know there are a couple of other Foie Gras dishes waiting behind those mirrored doors, so I guess I'll start my wishing for my next birthday right away. By then my son should be able to talk. I wonder if he'll be able to keep a secret then.

FOIE BLOG BACK IN ACTION

FoieBlog apologizes for it's recent hiatus. We have bills to pay, and sometimes our day jobs get in the way of this labor of the liver. Keep clicking on those ads, though, and perhaps we can one day loosen the shackles of corporate servitude - and answer to our corporate advertisers instead!



While we were gone, GrasGuy had a few eating adventures and will be posting on them in the next few days. There's also a lot of anti-Foie Gras activity to catch up on as Bro-Town, also known as Philadelphia, the City of Brotherly Love, quickly becomes the new hot spot in the battle for Foie Gras freedom.

VETS TO VET FOIE GRAS

Growing up everyone knew someone who wanted to be a veterinarian. While FoieBlog is sure only a slight fraction of these people actually followed through on their dream, we encourage all of our readers to track down these people, and soon.

The reason? At the July meeting of the American Veterinary Medical Association, members will be voting on a resolution that would put the AVMA on record as opposed to the "inhumane practice." This is the fourth time in a row the group has taken up the issue. Last year a large majority of members voted against similar wording. That being the case, FoieBlog wonders who is responsible for reintroducing it every year. This session, it is one of only two resolutions being voted on - the other involving privacy issues raised by the use of microchip registration databases for pets. Clearly a minority of members in position to introduce this type of resolution are doing so of their own devices and not the feelings of the general membership.

Forget dogs, level-headed veterinarians can be our best friends in the fight for Foie Gras if they take a first hand, scientific look at the issue themselves. Clearly, they are predisposed to be skeptical about how "inhumane" Foie Gras production is, but if they keep hearing about it at these meetings without getting a look from the other side, eventually they will mimic the Chicago City Council and vote in favor of it without careful consideration of their action.

ISN'T DANIEL CRAIG JAMES BOND NOW?

Seems James Bond III (never forget ol' George Lazenby), Roger Moore, has sent a letter to all of the British MPs asking them to support Hugh Bayley's efforts to ban Foie Gras in Great Britain.

Mr. Moore has previously appeared in a PETA-produced anti-Foie Gras video, and has been an outspoken opponent of the dish he once loved. Not long ago Gordon Ramsay publicly called Moore a hypocrite for enjoying the good life all those years ago and suddenly turning coat and telling others not to do the same. Ramsay eventually apologized after Moore said that what he did he did out of ignorance and now he knew better.

Ignorance? It's not like he was some flighty 18 year old Lindsay Lohan-type when he was a superstar. He was in his 50's at the end of his stint as Bond. Talk about bliss.

As far as FoieBlog is concerned, as entertaining as Moore's films were, Sean Connery is the only true Bond. If anyone is going to be using the star power that goes with that title it should be him. Seeing as how Connery's a Scot...mmm, Haggis...we'll assume that he enjoys all kinds of offal. Who can ever forget that scene from Never Say Never Again when Connery shuns the hospital food they serve him and breaks out his secret stash of Beluga caviar, quail’s eggs, vodka, and foie gras?

Yea, you're right, it's probably just us that would remember that. But we're sure you'll be watching for it next time the movie shows up on TNT.

IN CASE YOU MISSED IT...WE DID!

FoieBlog was sadly unable to view Gordon Ramsay's, the F-Word last night, featuring a report on Foie Gras. We were hoping someone would put the video on You Tube or something, but so far no go.

From what we've been able to find out, however, the piece was about a Foie Gras farm in France followed by a trip to Pateria de Sousa in Spain to take a look at their Foie Gras alternative, Ganso Iberico.

Unfortunately, the only comments we've been able to find on the show have been on animal activist websites - so we'll take them with a grain of salt. If anyone out there saw the program, please let us know what you thought. We'll keep an eye out for more info.

On a side note, Ramsay announced that he'd be taking Bluefin Tuna off of the menus at his restaurants because of it's increasingly endangered status. As always, FoieBlog enjoys seeing a chef with a concious supporting the consumption of Foie Gras. We haven't made it to one of his restaurant's yet, but Mrs. GrasGuy dined at Maze in London and was wholeheartedly impressed. We look forward to trying his Pressed Foie Gras and Game with Port Sauce and Pickled Mushrooms at The London in NYC when we get the chance.

FOIE GRAS, THE NEW "F-WORD"

If you're a FoieBlog reader in the UK, or can get the BBC from your cable or satellite provider, tune in to Gordon Ramsay's 'The F-Word' tonight for an episode dedicated to Foie Gras.

Ratings should be high as every member of the RSPCA will be tuning in to see Janet Street Porter's report from a Foie Gras farm. The British animal activist outfit is using the program as a rallying point to call for a ban on Foie Gras sales in the UK.

Porter's reports usually focus on investigations into alternative meats, and she's been known to dust things up a bit. On a recent show she caused quite a stir as she tried to serve Horse meat burgers at a racecourse in Britain.

More to the point, she's also looked into Veal production in the UK and determined it to be cruelty-free, much to the chagrin of the RSPCA and their cohorts. FoieBlog is anxious to see where the Foie Gras farm is located as production is illegal in the UK. We're guessing it'll be France since that's were most Foie Gras is imported from into Britain, but we'd love to see her make the trip to the US to quiet down the naysayers on this side of the pond.

On a side note, while vacationing in Puglia, Italy, GrasGuy discovered that horse meat is as common there as beef steak. Entire butcher shops are dedicated to it, and it's widely featured on menus throughout the region. Unfortunately, Mrs. GrasGuy was an equestrian as a girl and forbade him from ordering it on the trip.

He hopes to make the trip solo one day.

JUDGE DECREES FOIE GRAS FUNDING IS "RATIONAL"

FoieBlog joins the folks at Hudson Valley Foie Gras in breathing a sigh of relief today as we learn that a judge has dismissed a lawsuit challenging the farm's receipt of a state grant to upgrade their facilities.

You'll remember that the Humane Society was arguing that the Empire State Development Corporation had irresponsibly awarded the money - in an attempt to take the cash back from the Foie Gras producer. Unfortunately for them, Justice Thomas McNamara ruled that the ESDC had "a rational basis" for their decision and that there was nothing unlawful that merited the suit.

Ironically (we think that applies here), at the time of the challenge, Hudson Valley actually noted an uptick in sales as a result of the publicity surrounding the filing of the suit, attributing increased awareness of Foie Gras among people who were otherwise unfamiliar with it.

FoieBlog would like to note that this is the first time we've had two consecutive posts with good news on the fight for Foie Gras. Dare we hope for a Threepeat?

CHICAGO FOIE GRAS BAN MAY BE BANNED

Seems that Chicago's Foie Gras ban may not be set in stone after all.

The Chicago Sun reports that City Alderman Ed Burke, with the support of several colleagues on the city council's Health Committee, quietly slipped a repeal of the Foie Gras ban into the agenda of this week's meeting. It wasn't brought up for a vote, but the move so angered the committee chair, Ed Smith, that he sent a letter of resignation to Mayor Richard Daley saying that he would leave his position if it ever did. Daley accepted the provisional resignation, pointing out that he believes the repeal will happen sooner or later.

To be fair, Alderman Smith is no Joe Moore, and he is apparently more upset about what amounts to an end run around his authority as chair, rather than defending the Foie Gras ban. However, he's also a long-time foe of the Mayor, so he'll be getting no support from City Hall in his efforts to preserve his vision of legislative etiquette.

FoieBlog hasn't been so happy since we discovered a restaurant serving Foie Gras stuffed Rabbit Loin near our HQ (review to come.) Kudos to our new favorite politician, Ed Burke. Chicago could have easily let this law live on the books with little enforcement like one of those wacky laws you hear about not being able to dance with a chicken in the presence of a kindergarten teacher (or something like that), but clearly there's been enough of a vocal and active opposition to the ban that city legislators now realize they need to serve the people and business of Chicago and not some whiners from Watkins Glen, NY (We're looking at you, Farm Sanctuary.)

FoieBlog urges our Windy City readers to keep up the phone calls and e-mails. The only lost cause is the one that you let be.

FIGHTING BACK FOR FOIE

FoieBlog regrets that most of the developments that we keep an eye on involve attacks on our freedom to enjoy Foie Gras, but there are those who are out there fighting the good fight, and today that fight made it to Capitol Hill.

David Martosko of the Center for Consumer Freedom spoke before a House Agriculture subcommittee today, warning of the rising influence of animal rights activists and their ultimate goal of eliminating meat from the food chain altogether. Although his was a broad counterattack against the likes of Farm Sanctuary, and not specifically in support of Foie Gras, Martosko stated:

"I have never tasted foie gras...but who are these people to decide I shouldn't have the chance to try it? When zealots ban books because of their politics, millions of people rise up. Why isn't banning food for political reasons viewed the same way?"

A bit over the top to be sure, but no more so than any of the activists' propaganda. Kudos to Martosko and the CCF for taking the time to speak up in front of our nation's legislators.

FoieBlog urges you to join them in battle by contacting members of the subcommittee .

Unfortunately, back in Chicago, things look a bit more bleak. The Daily Herald reports that while there is a mounting legal challenge to the city's Foie Gras ban, the interstate commerce grounds that it's based on aren't looking too firm.

FoieBlog sees this effort less about overturning the ban, and more about preventing similar legislation to be passed in the future. Not a bad goal, but a futile one from our perspective.

If any of our readers are in the legal profession and think you can bring anything new to the table, we urge you to contact the Illinois Restaurant Association and give them your two cents - not that you guys are known for giving away anything for free.

We jest.

Please don't file a slander suit against us.

Please.

BLANCHARD BUCKS BLAIR BUNGLE

Although it was a down year for Tony Blair's Labour (yea, that's how they spell it, kids) party in last week's UK municipal elections, the City of York proved once again it is on the verge of becoming the Chicago of Britain.

FoieBlog's favorite British whipping boy, York Councilor Paul Blanchard, managed to be reelected in what turned out to be a safe haven for Labor and Liberal Democrats alike. Although he hasn't managed to update his website as of yet, we anticipate that he'll be attributing the victory to his unsuccesful campaign against Foie Gras - that's usually how these things go.

Unfortunately for Mr. Blanchard, his petition to the prime minister only managed to garner 8,500 signatories - a drop in the proverbial bucket and not one likely to be heard by the PM in his last days in office.